Chapter 7: How They Eat in Heaven
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Estevan tells Turtle a story, a "wild Indian story about heaven and hell." He says that in heaven and hell there is an identical dinner table, but in hell one can only jibber and jabber and not eat, because of the very long spoons, while in heaven everyone eats until they are happy and fat. Lou Ann interrupts by asking "real fat, or do you mean just well-fed?"
Estevan explains that in heaven, people have the same food and utensils, but that they feed each other..... they take care of each other. People in hell only take care of themselves (the way the immigrants are treated). Thus, he is noting his disapproval of Virgie's comments.