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The Buendía family is the subject of the narrator. Although the story is written in third person omniscient much of it is seen through Úrsula Iguarán. One can surmise that Ursula is the protagonist. As for hero, this really depends on what one's interpretation of a hero is.
i think the axe of the novel is the wars and revolutions led by Colonel Aureliano~, who shaped the story and moved it....